Bouddi National Park is a small national park on the central coast of NSW. Although it's very small, it does have some quite large sea cliffs similar to those found in Sydney (Bouddi is part of the same region of sandstone). These are generally areas of active erosion, and are loose, unstable and unsuitable for climbing. There are also some inland cliffs which contain most of the climbing. Many of these are at the heads of gullies, and can be quite wet and slimy, particularly after rain.
How to get there Head out to Wagstaffe then turn somewhere, exact location is unknown at the moment, but if you discover then please email us.
This is the main lip visible in the cave, spans the whole cave
Arena15m 14 Start: The face below the obvious lookout rock platform. 15m left of the chossy roof
The face below the obvious lookout rock platform. 15m left of the chossy roof, past the ramp that leads to the lookout platform. A fairly steep face, with plenty of crimpy handholds down low, and jugs near the top. Good anchors on top, although they are well back from the edge. Seems to have been climbed (or abseiled?) before, as one of the anchor rocks up the top is quite chipped Go to Peter Monks site for a photo
A long series of buttresses up to about 25m in height, located on the eastern side of the Bullima Spur just south of Maitland Bay. Most of the buttresses are accessed via the Bullima Spur walking track, which branches off the Maitland Bay walking track not far from the Maitland Bay car park. The track initially passes a boulder field that looks like it could have some potential for good bouldering (perhaps after some cleaning). To get to the first set of walls (where all of the following climbs are), ignore the Bullima Spur track and continue down the Maitland Bay track until it passes down between two huge boulders (at the bottom and to the left is a small bouldering area sheltered from the rain). The track then veers right and down into a creek and then turns back left. At this point leave the track and head straight across the creek and up the other side to the top of the cliff. Two small descent gullies split the cliff just here. The following climbs have probably been done before, so the names probably aren't correct.
The Arete8m 20 Start: Left of descent gully
The blunt arete just to the left of the descent gully. Scramble up to the waist high ledge then up on small, sharp crimps to the large, sloping break. Doddle up the top section on jugs. Go to Peter monks site for a photo
Bombie10m 22 Start: 5m left of the blunt arete
Scramble onto the waist high ledge, then up, using the well-worn dish, the vertical intrusion on the left and some slopers on the shield formation. Pretty awful top-out, but a good belay using cams on a block about 5m back.
The Little Lobster crag is uphill from Little Lobster beach (which is about 500m North of Lobster Beach). It features a massive 10m roof (which might even be climbable!), plus some smaller rooves, and some nice looking slabs at the southern end. The rock was wet from rain when we climbed here, so much of the crag we only looked at. Some potential for good climbs. To get there, follow the directions for Dog Face. Where the track branches off right to Dog Face, the massive roof is straight in front of you, over the top of the ridge. You can either rap in (anchor off two trees at all times!), or you can head right until it's possible to scramble down to the base of the cliff.
Moss City15m 17/18 Start: In the middle of the nice slab at the southern end of the crag
Up a very thin face then right to a small ledge. Straight up from the ledge, being very careful of crumbly rock (the hole to the right is very crumbly). The bottom section was virtually impossible after two days of rain, as it was covered in moss and slime. A toothbrush for cleaning holds is recommended. Got to Peter monks site for a photo
The orange face visible high up on the southern headland of Lobster Beach. The obvious way to get there is to bush bash up the hill from the beach, although it's pretty hard going. A better alternative is to follow the "flannel flower" track up to the top of the ridge. At the top there's a faint walking track that heads off to the right along the top of the ridge above the southern end of the beach. Follow this for 500m or so until it starts to drop down. At this point the cliff is off to the right, a short distance down from the top of the ridge. About 20m left of the main orange face is a nice looking slabby face about 12m high. The middle of the face looks like it would be leadable (numerous horizontal breaks), and pretty easy.
15plus12m 21 Start: On the face 5m to the left of the fallen block
An excellent climb shaded by a large tree, but don't forget the SPF15+ (hence the name) since it faces north and bakes. On the face 5m to the left of the fallen block, distinguished by 3 vertical cracks and a chossy, windblown cave at ground level. 15+ is the left crack, and starts on the ledge beside the smallish blackbutt eucalypt. Pull out along the vertical wall under the roof, being careful of loose rock. Reach up around the lip for a large jug then crank out onto the main face. Hand jams in the bottom of the crack, while higher up only fingers will fit. Crux move up thin face to the juggy lip. Probably good pro in the crack (small cams), but next to no anchors on top (a large red gum about 15m back from the edge is good, but less than convenient). go to Peter monks site for a photo
15plus Variant12m 20 Start: From the base of the finger crack on 15+
From the base of the finger crack on 15+, head left and up on small crimpers.
A word of warning before anyone climbs in Bouddi. The park has seen little or no climbing, so many of the edges and thinner pieces of rock will snap off if you as much as breathe on them. Even the larger holds aren't necessarily safe, so be careful. We top-roped all the climbs listed below, with most of them being unleadable face climbs. Where I mention good protection, I mean I would feel safe placing protection on these climbs, were I to lead them. I'd recommend wearing a helmet and top-roping all climbs before leading, however, just to test out the rock and placements.
Since the crags listed below are within the boundaries of the National Park, bolts should not be placed on the rock. Aside from ethical considerations, I believe the placement of new bolts in Australian National Parks is illegal.
This location was copied from Peter Monks website (Goto 'links' to find the site)